The traditional method 'Hose and two bucket washes' uses roughly about 80 - 140 gallons of water per wash (data from the International Car Wash Association), compare that with the 'Water-less' car wash which uses about 1/2 gallon - 1 gallon of water-less solution used per car. So you can already here see the huge saving in water you have with the water-less method. The traditional method 'Hose and two bucket washes' uses roughly about 80 - 140 gallons of water per wash (data from the International Car Wash Association), compare that with the 'Water-less' car wash which uses about 1/2 gallon - 1 gallon of water-less solution used per car. So you can already here see the huge saving in water you have with the water-less method. Also with today's society regulations for water preservation, some locations especially in California, there is laws regulating car washes that uses water. So a water-less car wash will be able to go where the water-based can't, such as; public parking lots, parking garages or on streets in cities that simply doesn't allow it. So, what should you choose? Well, sometimes your car might be that little extra dirty with mud caked on and a lot of debris stuck to the paint, then a pre-rinse with water would be recommended. Water-less works great though with your average dirty car from dust to road-grimes.

To simply answer this I will first start with saying this; there is no method that will be completely scratch free. Every time you touch your car with anything chances are that you will create some light scratches or swirlmarks, unless of course you use a 'touchless' wash method. but that requires that the car is completely free from debris and just lightly dusty so you can foam up the car and blowdry it. However, there are other ways of limit the scratches you may create by washing and drying your car. The most common mistake comes from drying the car, people use 'shammys', terracloth towels, squeegees to dry the car after the wash. NEVER use any of these products to dry your car. We only use high quality microfiber towels with a minimum weight of 300 GSM (grams per square meter). Unlike cotton towels or cloth towels Microfiber towels are able to 'grip' even the smallest, most microscopic dirt particles thanks to millions of microfibers, so that we can 'pick up dirt, dust, and other junk from the paints surface when wiping the car with our Waterless solution. And again, if your car is extra dirty with mud and sand or just gunk, you would benefit from a pre-rinse. Some would say that a pre-rinse defeats the purpose of a waterless car wash. Well, waterless, hose and 2 buckets or not, you'll need to remove heavy contaminants before touching the car and sometimes you will need to compromise or you might look at a car with some different issues than just dirt.

While we at Swedish-American auto Spa focuses on using ECO-friendly wash methods we know that sometimes a good pre-rinse is required. However, we do not bring water tanks with us, we do carry the tools for waterbased washes such as; hose and buckets, schampoo etc., so that we can offer a waterbased wash. All we require from you is to supply us with the water source.

Yes, of course. Swedish-American Auto Spa only requires that you text/email Swedish-American Auto Spa or cancel online at least 12 hours prior to your scheduled appointment to notify me of any changes or cancellations, so I can adjust accordingly. Swedish-American Auto Spa is a small independently run business and during busy periods appointments can be limited, Please note that once you have booked an appointment with Swedish-American Auto Spa, it means that we have reserved time in our schedule exclusively for you. For your convenience an automated reminder email and/or text message are sent out 1 day prior to the appointment. Unfortunately, when one client cancels without giving enough notice, it takes up time that could have been filled by someone else, this is costly for a small business, especially if we are already on route. However, Swedish-American Auto Spa do understand that emergencies or various other circumstances happens and you will have to cancel your booking. When that happens, please If prior notification is not given it will result in a charge of; ($25 for Basic Exterior/Interior Service, $50 for Premium Clean/Protect Service, $100 for Premium Clean/Protect/Correct Service,) for the missed appointment.

Yes! Swedish-American Auto Spa uses '3D Products' which are green and/or biodegradable and free of phosphates, nonylphenol ethoxylates, glycol ethers, and meets volatile organic compound (VOC) compliance. Ingredients used in 3d's formulations are listed in EPA’s Design for the environment (DfE) and Cleangredients list. The products are made of natural, renewable raw materials such as; Oils from coconuts, palm kernels, sunflowers, soybeans, and rapeseed make up a large proportion of the raw materials incorporated into 3D’s modern high-performance chemistry.

Not at this time. Swedish-American Auto Spa reserves the right to charge a non-refundable deposit of ($25 for Basic Exterior/Interior Service, $50 for Premium Clean/Protect Service, $100 for Premium Clean/Protect/Correct Service,) before we accept a clients booking. If a deposit is charged it will go towards your total price for services rendered. It is not an additional fee. (e.g, if the total price is $300, and your deposit was $50, then at time of checkout, you’ll only pay $250.) Should you later cancel the appointment outside our cancellation policy no extra fees will be accrued due to the non-refundable deposit. We would discuss with you first if we feel a deposit is necessary. We might in the future however, start charging deposits when booking online via our website, but for now all payments are made after service rendered in person on site.

Yes we do, you can select a recurrent maintenance detail on a weekly, biweekly or monthly basis. An initial full detail is required (New vehicles may be exempt if in accepted condition,) the vehicle will need to revisit us within 2 months or the next detail will no longer be considered a maintenance detail, and the vehicle will need to start over with a full detail, to get back into the detail maintenance schedule.

How often should you wash the car? Do you need to wax or clay it every time etc.? these are all great questions. Let's clear it out. Every car is used and stored differently, so how often you should wash or detail your car greatly depends on multiple factors. In general I recommend washing your car regularly or as needed, a daily driver for example normally gets washed on a weekly or biweekly basis, a weekend driver maybe once a month, it all depends on much dust, dirt and other debris has accumulated on the paint. That said, there is no written rule to when you need to wash or renew your cars protection, its on a case by case basis. However, the general recommendations is to wash your weekly, biweekly or at least once a month depending on how dirty it is as mentioned. The same goes for adding protection such as wax or sealant coats, coats vary in longevity and hardness, so when to apply protection depends on the same factors as mentioned above since protection will wear over time. As protections and paint wears over time you might need to completely restore the paint to deep clean it, remove swirl-marks, light scratches and enhance the paint. That's when clay-bars, compounds and polishes are being used, and moderate to aggressive products is used dependent on how severely damaged the paint is, how hard or soft the paint is. In some cases the paint is to soft or thin to allow more than light polish and you might have to live with some level of swirl-marks, whatever paint has been removed when polishing cant be reapplied without a paint-job. So a 1 stage polish is maintained 1 or twice a year as needed to maintain the paint and of-course protected with a sealer weather its being wax or ceramic coating. With polishing you would also clay-bar the paint first after a proper washing. So what is clay-bar doing? it's a necessary less abrasive treatment to remove bonded contaminants to the paint, think it as a face-mask where you strip the gunk from the pores of your face, that's what the clay-bar treatment is doing, its strips the gunk from the pores of the paint without wearing out the paint unlike a polish which is way more aggressive in removing paint. This is typically done once a year or as as needed for cars that are being used a lot and perhaps stored outside under the elements and will always collect dirt and debris. After washes, clay, polishes etc, is done, the paint is stripped from any protection and you will need a protectant coat that will take most of the "beating" from the elements. Wax can be used every wash if you wish to, there is all kinds of different waxes that varies in price and longevity, everything from a few washes to a couple of weeks (typically express waxes), to 6 months to a year, again, very dependent on how often the car gets washed, weather; rain, sun, snow etc. In California a wax that has a claim of lasting up to a year, I would say that the harsh reality is that it last more like 4-6 months, if the car is being normally used as a daily driver and washed on a regular basis. I typically recommend reapplying a Sealer grade wax every 4-6 months, some of my clients wants it done every time the car is being washed. Ceramic coatings however, they are much harder and stronger options than wax and typically claim to last between 1 year to 5 years with a Mohs rating of 9H dependent on the applied product, there are many different versions out there. To put it in perspective, a 5+ year Ceramic coating is usually commercially rated on the Mohs scale at 9H, which is close the hardness of a diamond at 10H, a knife blade is 5.5, a coin is 3.5H a fingernail is about 2.5H, so for a ceramic coating to be almost as hard as a raw mineral is a myth and don't buy in to that. Almost most minerals above 5H on the scale are pretty hard materials that do not scratch easily and would require a similar or harder material to be able to scratch it. So even though coatings are in fact much harder and stronger than waxes and the clear-coat itself, its designed to protect a vehicle’s paint from common debris such as; mud/sand/dust and moisture. Coatings are not bulletproof to damage but they do provide a strong layer of protection against UV and debris while allowing longer intervals between detailing, compared to using wax as a finishing product. It also has amazing clarity and shine while requiring minimal maintenance, that said, it does still require maintenance to perform well and to keep that good looks, so that weekly or biweekly wash is still required to maintain the glossy appearance. So the big benefit is that it doesn't require monthly maintenance polishing or waxing. So lets talk about the interior, this part of a wash or detail is most often times neglected when washing or detailing your car. Sure, the interior is being wiped down and vacuumed, glass might be cleaned but what about the fabrics, the leather, the plastics, these things gets worn down and take a "bearing" just like the paint every day its being driven. UV, Heat, cold, dust, water, spills, mud, skin lotions, everything you might find on the paint you can find in the car and more. For these and many more reasons a regular interior detailing is just as important as maintaining the paint. A good proper detail I recommend once or twice a year, a good time to do it would be at the same time you do your paint maintenance, most detailers offers packages where the entire cars nedds are met in a single package and also offer maintenance packages in between these bigger details. The general interior detail would be a thorough vacuum, wiped and cleaned, plastic restore, leather conditioning to re-moisture the leather to avoid cracks, shampoo of fabrics etc. On daily drivers especially "mom cars" where kids usually abuse the car real good, I recommend a nice maintenance detail every 2 weeks to a month or so, also if you have allergies I highly recommend giving it a minor interior detail on a weekly or biweekly basis to get rid of all that dust and debris you will inhale otherwise. If you let food spills and gunk to long in the car it will create that musty and mil-dewy spell. But as mentioned earlier, how often you need the interior done depends on how often the car is being used and how much gunk is being accumulated. Another thing to remember is, when you buy or lease a brand new vehicle, it is getting delivered to you with absolutely no protection and I strongly recommend that you start with your detailing routine right after its been delivered. You need to at least give it a layer of protection, weather it is a wax, coating or a wrap, you have an opportunity here to maintain this new car for years to come if you start taking care of it from the start and not letting it be "beaten" up by the elements and usage as best as you can.

The main difference between the two is the level of "aggression" used to polish out or "level" the paint imperfections such as; light scratches, holograms, swirl-marks, etc. Both methods are used to remove clear-coat by simply put "sand" the surface of your paint with polisher and pads using compounds that acts like "liquid-sandpaper," where the goal is to get a defect free paint surface like it was new. The 1 stage polish is a much less aggressive method of leveling imperfections, its normally used to remove oxidation from the paints surface but also lighter scratches from elements touching the car or after a 2-3 step polish to remove the "sanding" scratches you create to remove the holograms this method creates. In the 2-3 step process you use a compound that cuts in to the paint to more aggressively level the surface, after the compound you polish the surface with a 1 stage polish to smooth out and finalize the paint. That said, If you’re considering a paint correction for your vehicle, both methods REMOVES paint, and once removed it doesn't come back without being repainted. You should know that all cars are painted differently from the manufacturers, the paint comes in different thickness and hard vs. soft paint. So there is many different factors to consider when choosing to have a paint correction done. Sometimes depending on how the cars history, its not necessarily "safe" to go through with a paint correction and you might need to decide weather you can live with some imperfections rather than risking the rest of the paints health and simply give up on the idea of a perfect paint. The paint on your car comes from the manufacturer with relatively thin paint, its measured in microns and/or mils, most commonly used unit is "µ (microns)," for it's more precise measurement (1 µ (micron) is 1/1000th of a millimeter or 0.0393700787 Mil or 0.001 of an inch), in general, most cars comes painted with a paint-thickness between 100 µ (microns) - 160 µ (microns) / 3.9 - 6.2 mils, these measurements include; primer-coat, paint-coat and the clear-coat. The clear coat layer of these measurements range between 38 µ (microns) - 50.8 µ (microns) / 1.5 mil - 2.0 mils, which is half or more of the total paint-thickness. To put this in perspective, the clear-coat which is the layer you would be polishing, is thinner than a post-it note that measures about 76 µ (microns) / 3 mils. An average paint correction using a medium abrasive polish combined with a rotary polisher will remove approximately 3 µ (microns) / 0. 1 Mil range 20 - 28 µ (microns) / 0.8 – 1.1 Mil, of the clear-coat (that is typical 4 passes with the polisher at 1500-1800 RPM) but there are many variables such as the abrasive grade of the polish or compound, speed and pressure of the polisher, hard or soft paint, etc. that will affect how much coat is being removed. A dual action polisher will be a little less aggressive in removing paint. A total paint-thickness of < 100 µ (Microns) / 4 Mil is reasonably safe for polishing, if you have less than 90 µ (microns) / 3.5 mils, use CAUTION if you wish to proceed with any type correction. On average cars you can expect following paint-thicknesses; 200 µ (microns) / 8 mils can be expected on cars that has been re-painted. 100 µ – 200µ (microns) / 4 – 8 mils – is about normal paint thickness for most European cars. 80 µ – 100 µ (microns) / 3 – 4 mils, is considered a thin paint and common for a lot of Japanese cars. 80 µ (microns) /< – less than 3 mils, is considered a very thin paint and is common on 1 stage painted cars usually on original classics. So what does all of this mean? It means that any paint correction comes with certain risks or challenges, however in general most OEM factory clear-coats in fairly good condition, has the potential based on mention factors, to be compounded and polished safely multiple times without risking clear coat failure. Due to the limitations of the paint thickness you should not correct your paint using medium cut or higher aggressive methods more than maybe two times per year at most. That way you allow the paint to look good within the limitations of the paint. A lesser aggressive polishing for enhancements only will be possible several more times before you get to a point where you need to worry about paint failure. Theoretically if you have a good paint and don't over polish your paint, you could afford 2-5 polishes during the lifetime of the paint. However, you should never exceed removing over 15-20% of the clear-coat, that's the magic number most car manufacturers claim that the UV-protection is most effective and going beyond that your paint is at risk of failure and a target for oxidation. So the conclusion here is, does the car need a paint correction? if the answer is yes and the paint allows it, by all means you should do it if it's important for you to have a good looking and maintained car. The best approach is to give it the correction it needs and then follow up with a light polish every year or two, and meanwhile you maintain it with proper washes and details to PROTECT to avoid causing unnecessary damage that needs correcting later.

Absolutely, some might say they even work better thanks to the technological evolution of products constantly changes and improves to be not only more efficient but friendlier to our only mother earth. In most cases they are even cheaper to produce than the 'toxic' counterparts, so at Swedish-American Auto Spa we think it is a no brainer to go green, we can't think of a single reason not to.

Yes! Swedish-American Auto Spa loves the nature and we do our part to help the burden on mother earth. Our bottles and containers are made of 100% Recyclable PETE, HDPE, plastic bottles. Not only do we recycle our used bottles or containers, we refill all of our products in our already reusable bottles and contaiers so we can lower the environmental impact even more by making them last as long as possible.

A maintenance is simply put a schedule for a regular detailing on a recurrent basis, that recurrence varies based on several factors, how much the car is driven, how the car has been stored and how much dirt and guck it has accumulated and your budget. A maintenace detail is usually cheaper than the initial details due to it being washed and cleaned more often resulting in lesser advanced tools and products required to finalize the result since the car is simply cleaner than it would normally be without a regular detail schedule. The benefits of having a recurrent detail schedule other than saving some coins, as mentioned above, the car will be cleaner resulting in less time and efforts, tools and products to get to the desired goals, this way the price can be lowered vs. paying for an initial detail. Its actually cheaper for you to keep a maintenance detail going on a regular basis rather than letting the car accumulate so much dirt and debris that the paint will get damaged from the elements, and later wish to have the paint restored paying much more coins because now we will need the big toys to restore the paint to that new car look it once had. Unfortunately, often times it may be too late, the paint, fabrics, leather, etc. has in certain cases taken such a "beating" that it simply can no longer be restored to that "like new condition." This is why and especially true for new car owners, you should have a maintenance detail weather its on your own or by a professional, to do just that "MAINTAIN" the cars new condition, equally important for the interior as the exterior, to keep it looking good and to keep its value. There is no such thing as over washing the car, a weekly or biweekly depending on your area (weather elements) and how you keep your car stored, (inside/outside), how often you drive it, (daily, weekly, monthly, etc.) it all changes the need for how often you need to wash and/or detail your car, either way a weekly schedule will not harm if you wash it properly. To protect your cars exterior paint, interior plastics, fabrics, leathers from the elements will extend the cars good looks and value for as long as you will have it. I hear a lot when talking about giving a clients car a continuous protection, etc. -"Well, this is just a lease, so I don't really care. I will return it soon anyway." Later on I will get a call from the same client who wants me to fix minor damages on that leased car to try to get away with "penalties" from the dealer, problem is that sometimes since you didn't take care of the car because it was only a lease, now you have expensive fixes to restore it and that may initially cost more to restore than accepting the dealer penalties, when you could have avoided either costs by simply have the car maintained. Another client later decided to keep the lease-car, but with the same mindset as the previous client he now wanted me to restore his old lease-car that had everything from scratched and faded paint, fabrics and leather dyed from dirt and other debris which took hours to restore and in a couple of places the fabric was just plain ruined. Point of this is that you never know what the future offers, even though you lease the car, care for it, keep the value up by maintaining it, if not to avoid penalty fees from the dealer, you might want to keep the car later. If you own the car, why not keep it in good condition? Its better to prevent damages than fixing damages, it keeps the car alive with maintenance details and you will definitely same some coins long term.

Clay Bar is an engineered resin compound used to remove contaminants from the surface of your car’s paint, glass, fiberglass and metal. Detailing clay can be natural or synthetic, though most manufacturers utilize synthetic clays. It's a mild abrasive contamination treatment stuck or bonded to your paints surface that will simply not be removed through your regular wash. So when should you add a clay bar treatment to your detailing? Every cars need are different, it depends on various factors whether or not you should clay bar your car. To determine this your self you first need to wash the car and remove the dirt and debris from the car that will come off from a wash. Once the car is washed and dried, feel the surface of your car with your fingertips. If your paint feels rough or uneven you will probably benefit from clay baring so you can remove the stuck contamination. Often times you will also feel the roughness when drying the car, the towel will sort of get 'stuck' instead of easily glide against the surface. The roughness you feel on your paint are contaminants such as factory fallout, brake dust, tree sap mist, road grime, paint over-spray and other junk that is stuck to your car’s paint finish. So, how often should you clay bar your car? Like I said earlier, every car has it own needs and depending on how often the car has been washed, how it has been stored; outside, inside etc., just feel the cars paint after every wash and judge it from there, just remember clay bar is an abrasive and should only be used if the car really needs it. Some recomendations however, is to clay 3-4 times a year. But I feel it is better to prevent contaminants from getting stuck to your paint by regular maintenance washes and added protectant like waxes, sealants or coatings rather than clay baring to often. But like I said, if your car needs it, by all means you should use it. I also strongly recommend that after you have used clay bar and dried off the car, you will add a good quality wax for protection of your newly cleaned and smooth surface.

Wax and Sealants are pretty much the same thing. Even though they are not exactly the same, they both serve the same purpose; to protect the paint surface and create that deep shine and wet look. Car waxes are made from either natural materials (such as Brazilian Carnauba) or synthetic materials like polymers or acrylic resins. So what should you choose? For the longest time detailers have preferred Carnauba waxes for its ability to give you that depth, warmth and natural shine. But as science evolve Polymer sealants have turned in to a great alternative and works great and will give your car that little sparkle and longer lasting protection. Depending on your circumstances such as; how often you wash your car, how you store your car and weather elements etc., a Carnuba wax could last you about 6 months or so while a Polymer sealant could last up to a year. So it is an aquired taste what you should use, but either way you should use one of them.

Unfortunately No, swirlmarks or scratches are paint damage which needs to be polished. For that you will need a polishing or cutting compound which is an abrasive that will 'rub' or polish off the swirlmarks or light scratches by wearing down the clearcoat and remove the damage from the surface. This is a two way process and you will need to add a wax coat after you have finished the polishing process to give your car a protection and that wet shine. The Polish alone will not give you any shine or protection. There are some waxes out on the market that claims that they will 'fill" light scratches and wax at the same time, but all it really does is 'hiding' the scratch temporarely, wax is not a forever solution and will wear off. When it does and you have used a 'filler' wax the scratch will simply come back and obviously you still have your problem. So if you really want to remove any swirkmarks, go the extra mile and use the proper solution.

The main difference between Ceramic Trim Coatings and Dressings are that the Ceramic is that the Ceramic Trim Coatings will outlast any other Restorer no matter who the manufacturer is, hands down. However, you may or may not like the finish of the Ceramic coatings, the Ceramic Trim Coats will create a bit of a glossy sheen no matter if you have an original matte finish or a gloss finish, that is just the nature of a Ceramic Trim Coating, unlike a Trim Restorer that may restore and "lubricate" the original trim to get back that OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) look. If you are OK with a slight gloss to the original look, a Ceramic Trim Coating may last 200 washes or more depending on various conditions such as; weather, how often you wash it, storage (inside/outside), what cleaning products you use etc. A Trim Restorer may last a couple of weeks maybe a month or so based on the same above mentioned conditions, but in return it will make the trim look more like the original look from the manufacturer. So what it comes down to is preference, what do you like, how often do you want to reapply the product and of course what you can afford. Any Trim Ceramics will typically be more expensive to apply, however, considering the longer lasting capabilities it might be worth it to buy the more expensive product and save your self the time and money to reapply a shorter lasting product which will eventually rack up the cost anyway. Now for the Heat Gun, a lot of people ask me if you can restore your trims with a heat gun, and that is true, you can get amazing results with a heat gun, however, we are trying to restore the trim not damaging it. The problem with a heat gun is that you are forcing the existing oils in the plastic to the surface of the trim, which will restore the look and finish to the trim, but it comes at a cost, you can only do that once or twice, after that you have dried out the plastic even more and the faded look you restored will eventually come back even worse and it might even start cracking the trim. So I do not recommend doing it. If you still would like to try it, what I would suggest is; after you restored your trim with the heat gun, you keep on treating it with you preferred product of Trim Restorer to keep "rejuvenating" the results you got from the heat gun, keep the heat gun as a one time initial treatment and keep using the products that are made for this purpose. When it comes to Trim Restore, there is no real permanent treatment, like everything car related, maintenance is the key word, just keep maintain your trims, paint, leathers etc. on a regular basis and you will keep your trims and accessories looking like new during the time you have the car which in turns will help you keep the cars look and value up to date. So, a Ceramic Trim Coating i would Reapply every year, a regular Trim Restorer I would reapply every wash or every other wash, this will not hurt the trims. Also, remember, most Restorers, Ceramic or not usually claim to have a UV protection, but trust me, they are so minimal I am not convinced it matters much, so go with the product you feel is easy to apply and last at least a month or two.

Ceramic Coatings is a liquid compound typically composed of silicon dioxide (Silica, Si02), which is sourced from natural materials such as quartz crystals and sand. Some types and brands also use titanium dioxide (Titania, Ti02) or Reduced Graphene Oxide (rGO). This coating provides resistance against certain chemicals and minerals, the nanotechnology makes the coat transparent in appearance and this makes the surface shiny and hydrophobic and it will propel dirt and water. With ingredients such as water, triethanolamine, polysilazane, titanium dioxide it makes the liquid stay afloat on the surface and once applied it sticks (bonds or blends) with the paint and once cured (hardened) it essentually becomes a crystal-clear and glossy "thin glass shell". Due to its harder abilities it is often referred to as a "Permanent Paint Protection" (it is however NOT permanent) and it provides great protection against contaminants and minor scratches, all while making the vehicle much easier to clean up thanks to the hydrophobic abilities to repel water, dirt and grimes etc. So if you are thinking about whether it's worth it or not to spend $1000+ on a ceramic coat, consider this; Is your vehicles paint kept in near-perfect condition? Do you drive it regularly but doesn't neglect the vehicle? Is your vehicle garage kept or covered? Do you wash it often, hand wash every week or every other week and not in the drive through wash? If you answered Yes to the above questions, a ceramic coating could benefit you and your vehicle. Should your situation or condition of your vehicle look like this; I have a daily driver that gets abused. My vehicle gets very dirty, and isn’t washed right away or regularly maybe once or month or less. My vehicle is likely to be scratched and/or dented. I don't want to spend a lot of money for protection. You probably don't benefit from a ceramic coating and should stay with other sealants such as wax or ceramic spray sealants. If you have a car that is used rarely and garage kept you don't need a ceramic coating in my opinion, you will be fine with a high grade wax and just keep maintaining the vehicle after your "Sunday drives" or once it left a show room if you have a show car. So, should you coat your vehicle? remember there is a lot of myths and untrue facts about ceramic coatings, some comes from people simply not knowing what they are talking about, some comes from manufacturer or detail companies trying to sell their product to earn the good $$. So I will try to help inform you so you can better decide if this is an option for you. First and foremost, what is Ceramic Coating? The coating is a silica gel made of quartz crystals and sand aka. silicon dioxide or Silica (SiO2). Silica provides resistance against certain chemicals and minerals, the nanotechnology makes the coat transparent in appearance and this makes the surface shiny and hydrophobic and it will propel dirt and water. With ingredients such as water, triethanolamine, polysilazane, titanium dioxide it makes the liquid stay afloat on the surface and once applied it sticks (bonds or blends) with the paint and once cured (hardened) it essentially becomes a thin glass shell. Now, lets clear out some of the myths; Is a ceramic coating scratch proof? The short answer is No, it is scratch resistant, NOT scratch proof, there’s a big difference. What does this mean? It means that you can still scratch the coat with improper wash techniques and poor maintenance. Rock chips will still damage the coat, and minor bumping in to things and bush twigs etc, can still scratch the coat, bird poop, tree sap, chemicals and mineral deposits will still "gnaw" on your coat if left for too long. You still need to wash and maintain the ceramic coating, which brings me to the next myth; You will never have to wash my car again. Also not true, like I mention above, you will still need to maintain the coat, remember that the coat is merely a added surface protection that is resistant to certain elements with hydrophobic capabilities, this means that dirt and grimes, water-spots etc. will still get on to your car, the coat will make those contaminants easier to remove. A ceramic coat doesn't last forever, just like any other sealant, it wears down in time and by not washing the car properly will contribute to the wear of the coat. A ceramic coat typically last between 2-5 years IF PROPERLY cared for. Some people think that once they have a ceramic coat you don't need to wash it as often or at all, this is a selling point for some manufacturers and detailers that you need less maintenance than with other sealants, that couldn't be more untrue, if anything, you probably need more maintenance if you want to make sure that the ceramic coating will last as long as possible to get the most of the protection you paid for. Sure, the ceramic coat is harder and it takes longer for it to be removed than other sealants, but the hydrophobic qualities is actually on the surface of the coat and could wear down faster if not properly cared for, using proper wash techniques and products to protect the topcoat will make it last longer. A 2-5 year coat doesn't guarantee the lifespan, it all depends on how the car is cared for, how it is stored, how it is driven, elements, etc. The best way to care for your coating is to wash it carefully, and often. Stay on top of maintenance. A ceramic coat will hide minor scratches and swirl-marks. This is not true, if anything it is the exact opposite, unlike some waxes that has "fillers" in tem to di just that, fill up minor defects and hide them, which is btw a very temporary solution since it will wear out in time and the defect comes back, a ceramic coat is not a liguid filler and due to the "highlighting" qualities of the coat it will actually enhance any minor defects. This is why a ceramic coating application is so much more expensive than buying a wax application. The product itself costs 5x more than a bottle of wax. It’s more time consuming to apply and requires a lot of preparations of the paint to do it right, and as I have mentioned earlier, it also performs better and lasts longer than other protections so naturally, it comes at a higher price. A Ceramic Coat is Fireproof. This is a myth I find to be hilarious, I have even seen YouTube videos where someone coated there cars and to show the "Fireproofing" lit the hood on fire to demonstrate the "fireproof qualities". This is So not true! In most demonstrations to show the "fire-proof qualities, a low temperature burning fuel is most likely used. Those burn very fast and leaves little time to truly damage the coated surface. When talking about heat resistance it is not fire the coating is designed to protect from but rather UV exposure, heat transfer from brake pads when applying ceramics to wheels, in some cases even in the engine bay. So I do not recommend that you test this, trust me. Anyone can apply a Ceramic Coating. Well, this is partially true. The application itself is pretty straight forward, to simplify it you could say it is a "Spread On - Buff Off" product, however, ceramic coats comes in many many different qualities and behaviors which may require some knowledge to apply it correctly since they all have different "flash-times" (the time it takes for it to harden) which if you fail to recognize and level (remove) the coat on time it will create high spots which can be tricky to to fix and will require some skills. Not to mention, to apply a ceramic coat you will need to prep the surface first. This is the main reason why a ceramic coat application is so expensive. Yes, you can totally do this yourself, there is plenty of decent consumer-grade ceramics available which you can get. The main difference from a DIY (Do It Yourself er) and a Professional detailer is the knowledge and expertise and access to proper tools and products. I am not saying a DIY doesn't know how or have the tools to apply a ceramic coat, but a detailer is doing this on a regular basis and often has access to Professional grade products and tools. To pay a professional you can spend $600-$2000+ to have a ceramic coating done. So compare this with doing it yourself, a rough estimate of products and tools required to do this will set you back between $1000-$1200 as well, some items will be unusable after contact with the ceramic and needs to be repurchased. You also have to understand that a ceramic coat application can take 8-12h to a couple of days to properly apply. Even if the car is brand spanking new you will still need to do a light deep clean polish, there is simply not a way around it, at least if you want this to be done right and make sure to get the best of the ceramic, this is another myth that it is not needed for new cars, but then again, it comes down to how picky you are as well. Bottom line is, the more time you spend on the prep job, the better the end results will be, 90% of the application is prepping for the ceramic. So let me break the process down: Properly and thoroughly hand wash your vehicle. DeCon or chemical (Decontamination) wash, treat the car with an Iron Remover, light wash again to remove the loosened contaminants and chemicals. Clay bar (Decontamination) wash, more decontamination, look at the clay bar as a "defoliating face-mask" that strips the paint from contaminants in the pores of the paint that simply put couldn't be removed from the initial wash. Dry the car with an air-dryer (excess water) and towels (for whatever missed water). Machine Polish to remove light scratches and swirl marks, a very tedious process that could require either a 1-Step polish or a 2-Step Polish depending on the condition of the paint. (For a new car you are just doing a "deep clean polish", new average cars comes with minor paint defects and is not as perfect as you would want to believe. Hyper-cars or Super-cars is in general a different story since they are usually much better painted which is expected from a car you spend hundred of thousand of $$ for,). IsoProp Alcohol tretment to remove any residual oils from polishes, waxes etc. This is the final "stripping" of the paint so it is "bare paint". Ceramic Coating application, this is done in small sections and is also a very tedious process due to the flash times. It is usually applied 4x in a crosshatch pattern in 2'x2' sections, depending on your coating you have a flash time of 30-60 seconds to 1 minute or 2. (Here is a big difference from a consumer grade coating and a professional grade, consumer grade coats normally have a longer flash time than the professional grade, allowing you to be a bit slower to remove the product before it has hardened. This comes with both advantages and disadvantages, in general if a coat has longer flash time it usually means it is a "softer" coat and will most likely not hold up as long as the professional grade coat, even though both could have a claim of similar or the same lifespan, a softer coat will require a more careful maintenance to make it last than the "harder" coat that potentially could take a bit more "neglect" before failing). Curing, Most ceramic coatings will cure on their own within 24 hours or so. During that time, it’s important to keep the car from getting wet. Some detailers will use infrared (expensive) lights to speed up the curing process of your coating. This cuts down the time it takes for the coating to fully cure and be safe to wash or drive in the rain. So all that said, are you still not sure about using a ceramic coat on your car? As you can see, there is a lot more that goes into the coating process than simply waxing a car. This takes a lot of time and because of that, the cost of labor goes up substantially. Let's talk about $$ for an approximate comparison. A typical wax job done by a professional will cost you about $100 to $180, depending on size of your car and the detailing company you use. On the other hand, professionals charge between $600 to $2000 to apply a ceramic coat. This is a lot of greens but at the same time, is it really? Consider this; In 2-5 years (which is the average lifespan of a ceramic coat ), your car will need to be re-waxed about 12 times to maintain that glossy appearance as wax needs to be done after every 2 -4 months. In 5 years, that count can go to 30 times. So in 5 years, you will be spending at least $3000 to $4500 on your car’s paint protection. On the other hand, a $1200 ceramic coating could last for 5 years with the proper maintenance and care. So comparing these two options, and seeing how often they require renewal, it is clear that ceramic coating is the most economical way to go.

A lot of people think that once leather is cracked, lost its leather smell etc., all hope is lost to recover it. Not so, obviously it is better to keep your upholstery maintained and cleaned regurarely to keep it nice and smooth. If you have cracks there are ways of repairing it without spending hundreds of dollars in re-upholstery fees. Keeping up with your leather upholstery is necessary in order to preserve it, protect it and keep it smelling new. Leather requires replacement of its natural oils or it will dry out and crack if not treated regurarely. Conditioning the leather helps to restore these natural oils and keeps the leather soft and smooth and it will bring back that 'new' leather smell which is the cherry on top. It also gives some protection from the suns UV-rays which will contribute to the leather drying out and crack if not treated. Its recommended to reconditioning your leather upholstery 3-4 times a year. In between treatments you should also clean it whenever needed, you dont need any specific cleaners for that. Vacuum the seats first to remove heavy dirt or junk, take a damp microfiber towel to wipe down the surface completely to remove any remainder dust and light dirt so it won’t scratch or rip the leather. You can use a mild soap and water mixture to clean light stains, and if you need to adgitate the stain use a detail brush to work the stain gently and then wipe off the soap and dry off the leather. After you properly cleaned the leather you can apply the conditioner and you should be able to immediately smell the leather and feel how the it gets softer from being 'nutritient'.

Restoring your headlights should not be considered a "luxury service", as some might think, it is a safety repair service. Headlights are usually made of poly-carbonate plastic these days to save weight when producing a car. Even though these plastics are strong, they do wear down in time from dirt, debris and UV-rays just like your paints surface, and they start to fade or become yellow hazed. Not only will this look bad, it causes some safety concerns like unsafe nighttime driving and loss of visibility. So, restoring your head lights will correct these problems and make your car look better and potentially higher your cars resale value, not to mention you save hundreds of dollars in replacement of new head lights and more importantly, you will improve your nighttime driving visibility, make your visibility clearer and others will see you better as well. Yellowed/cloudy lenses drastically reduces the lens light output especially during night time driving, eg. clear lenses could give you up to 363ft/110m or more light out put whilst foggy lenses reduces the light output to 145ft/44m or less in some cases. And you will have great looking head lights. A car with hazy headlights looks worn, both day and night. Even a new or desirable car looks dated and cheap with faded lenses and "materially" affects your car’s value and liquidity. ​ Restoring existing headlights cost a fraction of the cost of buying and installing new headlights. Buying and installing OEM headlight lenses can be very expensive, and time consuming. This service will restore 1 pair (2 headlights) like "new" with a Oxidizer Treatment, multiple step sanding, 1 Step polishing process and sealed with a high quality UV-Protectant Ceramic Coat to regain visibility for your safety and improve the overall look of your vehicle Speaking of... Here are some common myths about headlight restorations I would like to debunk; Question: - Why should I hire a professional to restore by headlights when I can do it for less than $10 with toothpaste or baking-soda? Answer: Even though toothpaste have ingredients with "polishing" qualities, it has never and will never be a viable way to restore/buff your car’s headlights, baking soda is just as abrasive as toothpaste and should be avoided. For toothpaste/baking-soda to actually make a difference your headlights need to be very slightly fainted and then maybe you will notice some visual improvement with some heavy buffing. Another great point to hire someone to restore your headlights is that the process to properly restore your lenses includes the sanding of Polycarbonate plastic, which releases BPA, that can be inhaled or absorbed into the skin if not properly protected. Even low amounts of skin contact and inhalation to BPA can lead to serious health consequences so it’s important to have the proper protection and equipment while wet sanding or dry sanding polycarbonate plastics, the same goes for the fumes any cleaner, solvents, oxidizer and sealers used to finalize this process. Question: - Can I use Mosquito repellent or WD-40 to make my headlights clear again? Answer: No, not really, that will not clear up hazy headlights; in fact, the "improvements" you may get will only last a few days and these type products have solvents in them that will eventually "eat away" or degrade your headlight’s plastic and any coating you might have, just like sanding off the old degraded plastic alone only exposes your headlights to UV damage. WD-40 can damage the rubber around your headlights, plastic bumpers, and your car’s painted finish if not removed properly. So you can create more damage rather than creating long-lasting and positive results. Question: - What do you think about "Off-the-shelf" DIY - Do It Yourself headlight restoration kits? Answer: DIY kits have come a long way and some of them are actually really great and if you use them properly can give you very professional results. That said, you need to be careful what kit you choose since they are not all the same and some of them will not work at least not long term, instead they end up exposing your headlights to harmful elements since they often times don’t include a protective sealer and the end results comes out with a tacky finish that actually attracts bugs, dirt, and grime and leaving them exposed to the UV-rays. Some DIY kits includes Solvent-based cleaners that very much like the previously mentioned Mosquito repellent and WD-40 solvents can slowly "melt" or degrade the surface of the headlight, allowing UV rays in which will ultimately destroy your headlights. With any of these methods or any method you choose, you will still need to deep clean and reseal the lenses with a proper UV-protectant sealer or whatever improvements you may have will be very short-lived.

For security reasons we need you to have an account with us to be able to book online. If you book an appointment with us, you’ll have access to your own Customer Account to help you manage your calendar. You can review your upcoming and past appointment details — including services, staff, location, date and time. Your Customer Account is also a great way to quickly book new appointments. Once you have a profile, you can sign in with your phone number to quickly select services and staff — just enter the security code sent via text message so we can confirm it’s you. To login to your Customer Account: Head to the online booking page. Select Sign In. You can also access your profile by entering your phone number during the booking flow. Enter the security code sent to your phone. Select Sign In one more time.

We accept following payment methods: Venmo, Magstripe and EMV chip cards, Contactless-near field communication (NFC) cards, Google Pay, Apple Pay, Samsung Pay or Cash. For your security we do not save your card payment information when using our card/mobile wallet solutions. Checks & money orders are not acceptable. We are a small independent business and we don't believe in "Surcharges" or "Convenience" fees when paying with our card/mobile wallet solutions, so we don't charge any. We want you to be able to pay with what you are comfortable with, however, you can help us out by paying with our preferred method; Cash, that way we can recoup from paying the credit card fees!

At this time Swedish-American Auto Spa charges In-person payments for bookings after service rendered. When paying with a credit card we don't keep your card information on-file, to better help you secure your information. That said, should you wish to save your card for future use to pay for e.g, Online bookings, Over the Phone, Recurring bookings (Maintenance details) or Online Invoices, when the card is not present, "card-not-present (CNP)," there is some degree of risk. To safeguard against that risk, which includes charge-backs, we will ask you to sign a document that grants Swedish-American Auto Spa permission to charge your credit card for recurring payments during a period of time. That document is called a credit card authorization form, once we have that signed we can securely store your payment information with our Square system. Please note that all client info is secured via our 3rd party apps security protocols, such as "Square" & "Wix" and Swedish-American Auto Spa are not liable for any information kept on file. We do however keep completed paper forms in a secure filing cabinet, and restrict access only to Swedish-American Auto Spa technicians to fulfill the booking. Digital completed forms will be encrypted, and sharing a PDF via e-mail however could create a vulnerability so if we need to send you a copy, we will either password protect the PDF and send it using a secure and encrypted email. And you can of course have your information deleted at any time.

Mobile detailing is a very convenient service that gives you the extra time to focus your valuable time on other things, I will reserve time for your car specifically and give it the attention that it needs at the convenience from your home or office, since I come to you. There’s no need for multiple trips to a shop or wash station. You will never be sitting in a waiting area for your turn or while the car is being washed/detailed. There are no other clients ahead of you at your house, so no waiting for your car to get ready before you can go about your own business. I hand-wash and dry your vehicle. I only use premium professional grade products. I spend my time making your car look great all while you relax or do whatever you would normally do at your home while I am detailing your car. So you are paying that little extra for the time spent, quality hands-on work and convenience.

I get this question fairly often, and it is a fair question. The answer is not that simple however, it really depends on the condition of the vehicle and what your lease term says about damages vs. normal wear, it varies from dealerships. Damages you will most likely be responsible for in general is; Large dents or scratches that needs to be filled with paint, most dents don’t usually meet the definition of excess wear and tear. The general rule is that if the dent is smaller than a quarter and the paint is still intact, most dealer will let it pass as normal wear. Bigger dents or dings might be worth having a dent repair specialist to repair for you, that will usually be much cheaper than paying the dealership penalty. If a bumber is scuffed or pain-transfer has occurred, a detailer is usually a good option, even though that might be considered normal wear, it will look better and the inspector might not be to "petty" going forward with the inspection. Scrapes to the bumpers to the point where paint is chipped or scratched off, you’re better off visiting a local body shop and paying for repairs before the lease ends. As mentioned above, small dent might be forgiven, however, the threshold for curb-rashes on your wheels is smaller, minor damage is still allowed. I would consider having your wheels repaired if the sides of the wheels is scuffed, if you have warped or chipped the wheels you most likely will get charged for that. Also, inspect your tires. If less than an eighth of an inch of tread remains, you’re better off replacing the tires rather than having the dealer charge you for those as well, you can find much better deals on tires than what they will charge you. You will want to replace the tires if you have mismatched set of tires as well, e.g, two different brands front vs. back. The dealership inspector will notice that and charge you for it, and they will not find you discount tires. What about your glass, windshield for example? cracked, chipped glass anywhere on your vehicle will be absolutely unacceptable for the dealer inspector. The only thing a detailer may help you with here would be if you have wiper-blade wear on your windshield, that can usually be polished out, a bit time consuming but it could be worth it, a new windshield usually ranges from $300-$500 to replace, with that in mind, if you have deep cracks and you can feel it with your fingernails you will most likely need to repair it, that will be beyond a polish. A glass repair typically cost between $20-$70 per incident, meaning that you will pay for every crack or chip, so it can easily add up the cost fast. So it might be worth it to just replace it from the start at a Auto-glass Repair Shop or a Mobile Auto-glass Repair Specialist. Interior is not exempt, you might get away with some minor scuffs and stains, it is not a bad idea to have a detailer perform a deep clean and a plastic restore treatment, plastic restore treatments does not remove scratches or scuffs from plastic but it will clean it up and look much better. Tears in leather will get expensive and I highly recommend leather conditioner treatments every 4-6 months to keep the leather soft, smooth and UV-protected to avoid the leather from drying out and eventually crack. The best way save your self from dealership penalties is to maintain your car on a regular basis and repair whatever issue you get immediately and not let it pile up when the lease is running out. That will save you money in the long run and you will have a nice car while driving it at all time. I hope this helped you out in determining weather you need to have your car detailed or repaired at the end of your lease term.

The quick answer is No, of course you don't have to. However, tipping is a way of life in America and we all have our ideas about if or when it is appropriate to tip most service workers. You normally would tip your restaurant servers, barbers/hairdressers, dog groomers and even your delivery drivers, so why not your detailer? Auto Detailing is very active and hard work and can be both time consuming and difficult and that is why most people will leave it to the professionals to get that thorough clean and get that new car feel back and go on with their own business while a detail technician work on your vehicle at the convenience of your home or office. A detailer can spend anything from 30 minutes to 12 or more hours on detailing your vehicle, especially a mobile detailer that comes to you and most often times will work outside in the heat or cold weather. I would say that most professional detailers will not expect or require a tip and will perform their job as professional and thoroughly weather you tip them or not, but the gesture can increase or create a better relationship with your chosen detailer, and when you treat any service worker right, they will do the same for you and you will have a great trustworthy business relationship for years to come if you will. Even though I am an independent contractor who works alone I personally do not expect any tip, should you choose to give a tip it is customary to tip around 15-20% of the total cost of the detail. For more involved detailing jobs, it is considered appropriate to tip additionally. So, tipping your detailer may not be required but it is always a much appreciated gesture which shows that you in turn appreciated the results and the services performed. That said, tip or no tip, Swedish-American Auto Spa will always strive to leave you happy with your results and I take pride in performing a good service, and if you like the results then equally good as a tip if not better is; referrals, a great review and also repeat business.